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Guido's open face quartz pocket watch collection
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I really like pocket watches. They are convenient and beautiful. To have
the watch in your pocket makes sense. The watch is well protected and
you have nothing on your wrist that hinders the mobility of your hand.
For most watches I do not yet have pictures of the movement. The reason
is that I did not want to open the watches just for a picture. I will
add pictures of the movement whenever I open a watch for other reasons.
The railroad and pocket watches
The history of the pocket watch was influenced by the railroad.
Railroad companies published specifications
for pocket watches and railroad grade pocket watches remained the only
watches approved
for railroad service until the 1950's.
Many train lines in north America had only a single track for both
directions. It was imperative that the conductor followed a precise
train schedule such that no two trains would occupy the same track in
both directions and collide.
The conductor's pocket watch was therefore an important part of
railroad security.
The specifications for an American railroad approved pocket watch
related not only to the design of the movement and its accuracy
but as well to the style.
Quartz watches fulfill the accuracy requirement easily and it is the
style of a watch that we are referring to when we talk about a quartz
railroad watch.
- open face (no lid over the dial)
- plain white dial
- bold black hands
- bold Arabic numbers
- lever set with the winding stem at 12 o'clock
The site railswest.com has a very nice page about the railroad and watches
http://www.railswest.com/time/watches.html.
This page shows some of the open face quartz pocket watches that I have.
Vintage quartz pocket watches from the 70's, 80's and 90's
Bulova Quartz railroad approved
This Swiss Bulova pocket watch is my all time favorite. It has just the right
weight and size. It is as well very easy to read because the hands are all very different from another. Unlike most watches it has no
plastic bezel around the movement. Instead a precision milled metal ring
is holding the movement in place. It has a rubber seal on the back cover. The watch runs more than 5 years on single
large V391 battery. The production of these watches started in 1973. This
particular model is however from 1980. It has a
Montgomery Dial (each individual minute numbered in
Arabic figures) and a gold-tone case. The original retail piece was $175.00.
Diameter: 46mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Case material: gold plated brass
Serial number on the inside of the case: 52004
Serial number on the back of the case: 52346
Serial number at the bottom of the dial: 7179
Date code: P0 (1980)
Battery: V391
Weight: 66g
Dial window material: Mineral glass
Movement: Swiss, Bulova caliber number: 2631.10, no jewels
Wikipedia has a nice description about the history of the Bulova watch company:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulova
Bulova Quartz railroad approved, stainless steel case
This one is very similar to the one above. It has a Montgomery Dial
with exactly the same colors but with additional numbers from 13-24.
Again a metal bezel is holding the movement in place and there is
a rubber seal on the back cover.
The watch is a newer generation of the one above
and has a different movement. The battery was changed to a smaller but more
common V371 and the
movement is now fully jeweled.
The watch is special because of it's stainless steel case. Most pocket
watch cases at that time were still made from brass, gold or silver.
Diameter: 46mm
Case Thickness: 8mm
Battery: V371
Case material: stainless steel
Serial number on the back of the case: 10020923
Serial number at the bottom of the dial: 82396
Date code: P2 (1982)
Weight: 56g
Dial window material: Mineral glass
Movement: Swiss, Bulova caliber number: 2801.10, 7 jewels
Wikipedia has a nice description about the history of the Bulova watch company:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulova
Belair Quartz pocket watch
These are two quartz watches from the 80's with beautifully decorated brass cases. Belair is an American watch company founded in 1945 and it exists to this date (www.beltime.com). It's a familly owned company and they
assemble all quartz watches and movements in the USA using Swiss parts.
Diameter: 49mm
Case Thickness: 7mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 52g
Dial window material: mineral glass
Movement: Swiss, 7 jewels
I belies that the below watch is the predecessor model of the above belair model.
It has a screw-on back and no plastic movement holder.
Diameter: 49mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V395/V399
Weight: 65g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss ISA1198, no jewels
Full movement documentation: isa-1198-movement.pdf
These Belair watches have a both a nice train pattern on the back. This makes it possible
to feel with your hand which side is the front and which side is the back while you are
pulling the watch out of your pocket.
Byron Nelson Eleven Straight golf pocket watch
This is a Byron Nelson Eleven Straight golf victories commemorative pocket watch. This particular watch is number
2089 out of a limited edition of 2500 watches made by Fossil in 1997.
In 1945 Byron won 18 of his 52 tournament titles, including a record 11 wins in a row.
The watch came originally with a wooden box and a signed picture by Byron Nelson (1912 - 2006).
I do not have the box.
This is a watch that I bought second hand and the little clip holding the battery was missing.
I made a new clip out of a thin stainless steel sheet and formed it such that a bigger higher
capacity v394 battery can be used. The case has enough room to accomodate such a battery.
The Fossil watch uses swiss parts but is made in Hongkong. The watch has a perfect size and weight.
It has a small crown which is a prefect choice for a battery powered quartz watch since
one rarely needs to change the time and it is more important that the crown does not get
accidently pulled while taking the watch out of your pocket. The case is made out of gold plated
steel.
Diameter: 47mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V394
Weight: 60g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss parts, ISA1198 movement, 1 jewel
Year: 1997
Model number: LI-1417
Limited Edition number:- #2089/2500
Full movement documentation: isa-1198-movement.pdf
LeJour Quartz pocket watch
LeJour Watches was a private, medium size watch manufacturing company established in 1965. At one time, it was headquartered in New York and had offices in Switzerland as well as China, France, Hong Kong, and Mexico. They built a reputation for building high quality watches, and owned patents and trademarks on a few different watches.
Some of their chronographs are highly prized by serious watch collectors, as they used the finest watch movements in their watches.
The two watches shown below can be found in a LeJour's watch catalog from the
mid 80's and they are in "as good as new" condition.
Diameter: 48mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V395
Weight: 38g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss parts, ISA1198 movement, 1 jewel
Full movement documentation: isa-1198-movement.pdf
This is a slightly smaller LeJour:
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 29g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss, 2 jewels
These LeJour watches have a both a nice pattern on the back. This makes it possible
to feel with your hand which side is the front and which side is the back while you are
pulling the watch out of your pocket.
KMC Quartz watches, made in Germany, Evaco SA
These are totally amazing watches. They have the best quartz movements I have
ever seen.
They are quartz movements with 7 jewels and the mechanical precisson and
finishing of the movements is just of outstanding quality.
The coil of the motor has an extra plastic foil around
it to protect
the fine wires against mechanical damage. When you open then watch then
you can change the battery but you will not see the full movement
because it has an extra plastic case around it to protect it.
The watch can take a V390 or a very big V386 battery.
It will probably run 10 years on
one V386 battery (that's a guess, I have not yet changed the battery).
I believe that these watches are from the late 70's.
I don't have much historic information about those KMC watches.
It seems that the swiss Evaco SA watch company (http://evaco.ch)
had produced movements and watches in Germany and used the brand name KMC
for those "Made in West Germany" watches. They made at the same time
similar watches in Switzerland under the name Marcel Quartz. Those
had a totally different movement and it said "swiss" on the dial.
Diameter: 47mm
Case Thickness: 13mm
Battery: V390 or V386
Weight: 56g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Evaco SA, 667.50, made in Germany, 7jewels
The following "KMC Quartz watch, Movement West Germany" is very similar
to the Marcel Quartz watch by Evaco SA (see further down). It is infact
using the exact same swiss made case.
Diameter: 50mm
Case Thickness: 13mm
Battery: V390 or V386
Weight: 60g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Evaco SA, 667.50, made in Germany, 7jewels
Diameter: 47mm
Case Thickness: 13mm
Battery: V390 or V386
Weight: 60g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Evaco SA, 667.50, made in Germany, 7jewels
Date: May 1981
Woodford Quartz
Woodford Clocks is a UK based company that manufacturers clocks and watches since 1860. Recent woodfort watches are no longer made in the UK. The Swiss Ronda movement inside this watch is a swiss movement but assembled in Hong Kong. It says at the bottom of the dial in very small print "SWISS MOVT".
The case material is brass with a chrome plating on the outside. The inside has a thin gold plating. The watch has a very classic desing and a good size.
Diameter: 51mm
Case Thickness: 12mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 56g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss, Ronda, 1 jewel
Rotary quartz pocket watch
This is a very nice thin watch with a clean dial design and a date at 6 o'clock. The case is made of gold plated brass (not just polished and painted brass). I bought the watch on Ebay and it had this problem that the battery would drain much faster than expected.
I was first suspecting gummed-up oil in the movement to be the cause
of the problem but it took me a couple of month to really understand what was
going on: The case design is very slim and the battery in this type
of movement is installed in an unusual way. The minus pole is facing the back with the case being connected to the plus pole of the battery. There is only
an air gap of 0.5 mm between the battery and the back. A little bit of
pressure on the back and the case would hit the battery resulting in
a short circuit. It was easy to fix this once I understood the problem.
I just insulated the inside of the back cover with a bit of clear scotch tape.
Diameter: 49mm
Case Thickness: 9mm
Battery: V395/V399
Weight: 46g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: ESA, 6 jewels (it says GY-82 on it, not sure what number that is)
Movement serial number: 963121
Bucherer Thin Quartz pocket watch
Carl F. Bucherer is a precious swiss watchmaker based in Luzern (Lucerne) Switzerland. Bucherer focuses on the premium market segment. The company is an old
family business and was founded in 1888. This particular watch is from
the 1980's. It is a remarkably thin watch, only 8mm thick, and it is
in very good condition.
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 8mm
Battery: V391
Weight: 41g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss ESA 944.111 movement, 7 jewels
Marcel Quartz, swiss railroad
A beautiful classic railroad watch with Montgomery dial.
It says "Evaco SA, swiss" inside the case. Evaco SA is a
swiss watch company founded in 1972. They are still producing
watches to this date (http://www.evaco.ch). It seems that Marcel Quartz
was one of their early pocket watches. The movement desing with
the big wheel for the minutes/hour hand and the unconventional ceramic enclosed
quartz crystal oscillator is completely non standard. This big wheel
has a friction fit to its axis and is the equivalent of the canon pinion in
normal watches. Note as well
that the battery is "the wrong way round" compared to most watches.
Diameter: 50mm
Case Thickness: 13.5mm
Battery: V390
Weight: 56g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss
Vintage japanese pocket watch, Seiko quartz
Most quartz pocket watches have the seconds hand in the center. A watch like
this one which has an eccentric seconds hand is very rare. It's a small
and light watch with the winding stem at 3-o'clock.
Diameter: 38mm
Case Thickness: 7mm
Battery: V397
Weight: 32g
Dial window material: glass
Movement: seiko japan 2628A, 2 jewels, ec-centric seconds
Full movement documentation: seiko-2628A-movement.pdf
KB quartz pocket watch
This is a quartz watch from around 1975. The case is solid brass, gold
plated, and no plastic parts (not even a plastic spacer around the movement). It has therefore
a good weight for its size.
The case opens to the front and you do not need to pull out the stem to take
the movement out.
The case is basically made of two halfs which come apart
exactly at he line where the stem goes through the case.
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 56g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: swiss
Timex quartz pocket watch
Timex was originally a Dutch watch company and it produced watches
since 1850. The main Timex company is today in the US (http://www.timexgroup.com/). Timex focused always on
the affordable watches and as an US american company they started early on
production in countries with low labor cost. On
the back of the watch it says "assembled in Philippines" inside
it says Hongkong and at the very bottom of the dial one can read
Taiwan. Timex embraced the quartz movement early on but focused on
the main stream wrist watch market and they made only very few pocket watches.
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 10.5mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 41g
Dial window material: plastic
Case material: brass, gold plated
Movement: timex Philippines, no jewels
Yves Renoir quartz pocket watch
This is a large swiss watch with a gold plated brass case. The watch has
a large crown and it was very easy to pull the crown. The force needed
to pull the crown was too small and the crown would somehow get pulled while
I had the watch in my pocket. To fix this problem a took a thin
titanium sheet and I cut a 0.8mm wide slot into it. The stem of this watch
is slightly thicker where the thread ends. I pushed this titanium sheet
over the threaded part of the stem as shown in the picture of
the movement (small picture below, click on it). Titanium is a very hard material and it acts like
a spring making it harder to pull the stem.
Diameter: 51mm
Case Thickness: 13mm
Battery: V371 or V395
Weight: 67g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: swiss ronda harley 373, one jewel
Royal Quartz Moon phases
This is really a beautiful watch with moon phases and date. I really like
the dial design.
The previous owner of this watch lost the little metal clamp which is
holding the battery. I made a new one out of a 0.025mm thick stainless
steel sheet.
Diameter: 41mm
Case Thickness: 10mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 32g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss Ronda Harley, no jewels
Russian Molnija quartz
Most Молния watches where analog mechanical watches however in the 80's they started to produce a small amount
of open face quartz pocket watches with a motorcyclist on the back.
As opposed to most western watches it is not plastic watch. It's all metal
and the movement is fully jeweled. A bit of a problem is how the
date setting mechanism on these watches. I have seen a couple of watches
where that part in not functioning.
The word Molnija ("Молния") at the top of the dial is the brand and
means means lightning in Russian. The word "КВАРЦ"
below the center of the dial means quartz. At the very bottom
of the dial (not visible in the picture) it says "Сделанo в СССР" which means "Made in USSR".
(No, I don't speak Russian. I had to ask around.)
Diameter: 50mm
Case Thickness: 16mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 75g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: 2460, 7 jeweles
Bulova Accutron Quartz, Queens University
Accutron watches were the fist small and precise electrical watches.
They were known as "tuning fork watches" and a small metal tuning fork
with an electrical coil was brought into oscillation. It was both
the motor and the time keeping source at the same time. The Bulova company symbol with the fork at the top reminds us that they invented that technology.
Bulova did of course adapt quartz watch technology because
it was technically superior and the whole industry was going there. It did
however keep the name for a while and added the word "quartz".
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 9.5mm
Battery: V391
Case material: brass, gold plated
Serial number on the the case: 8443
Date code: 11 P0 (1980)
Weight: 34g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss, Bulova caliber number: 2631.10, no jewels
The watch is engraved on the back with the letters "AWC". The person
who sold me that watch did unfortunately not know who that was or what it
stands for.
Bulova Accutron Quartz
The outside of the watch looks similar to the one above but
inside is a totally different movement. It uses a very unusual and small
V384 battery. The crystal is made of a slightly milky plastic.
The movement has a little metal cover and it says "no jewels" on it but
I can clearly see at least one jewel. I am wondering if there where two
variants of this movement one with jewels and one without and the wrong
cover was used for this movement.
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 10mm
Battery: V384
Case material: brass with a high copper gold plating (slightly red looking gold)
Date code: 1 N9 (1979)
Weight: 40g
Dial window material: plastic, slightly mikly
Movement: Swiss, Bulova caliber number: 2461.10, jewels ?
SEIKO 7011-0010, Japanese Railroad pocket watch
This is a watch specifically designed for the Japanese railroad
and is actually used to this date by Japanese train drivers:
The dash board has a little illuminated hole where each driver puts his own watch (click on the images for a bigger picture).
Most Japanese consumer level quartz pocket watches have small v377 batteries and the Japanese watches are generally not known
to be high quality pocket watches. This one is however an amazing exception and
they got every aspect of the watch right: Big and long lasting battery (5 years),
easy to read dial, all metal construction (not even plastic spacers), a fully jeweled movement. The 7C11A movement in this watch was first produced in 1986 and
was later replaced by the 7C21 movement which has an even longer lasting
litium battery (10 years).
Diameter: 49mm
Case Thickness: 12mm
Battery: SR43
Case material: Steel
Weight: 80g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: SEIKO 7C11A, 7 jewels.
Recent quartz pocket watches (made after year 2000)
Delweaco Railroad Quartz pocket watch
This is a watch sold by Andy H Weaver Inc. He has a store in Farmington
(near Parkman), Ohio, USA where he sells everything from boots to pocket watches.
This area of Ohio is home to a large
Amish and Mennonite farming community. A pocket watch is certainly
a very good option for any farmer who likes to work in the field with his hands.
The watch has a solid metal design and it is by far the heaviest quartz
watch that I have. It's a quartz watch but feels like an old hand winding mechanical
watch. It has a screw-on front bezel and a screw-on back cover.
A very nice watch that can take
a hit and is meant to be used by a farmer working in the fields every
day. The Weavers take catalogue orders and orders over the internet but
ships unfortunately only to destinations in the US and he does not even make
any exceptions for small items such as this pocket watch.
This is really a watch that I can recommend if you want a modern railroad pocket watch. It's made in China but the quality and the design is very good.
Diameter: 49mm
Case Thickness: 14mm
Battery: V395
Weight: 80g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Swiss ISA1198 assembled in China, one jewel
Year: 2013
Full movement documentation: isa-1198-movement.pdf
Gotham Quartz pocket watches
Gotham Watch is a venture from Dave Robbins and he imports watches
(made in China) at competitive prices. The watches are not the typical
Chinese low cost watches. Dave seems to pay attention to quality. They
are all very usable watches made to last. His storefront at
http://www.gothamwatch.com does
not offer shipping outside the US but he is a very nice person and
he had no problems to send a few watches to Canada after I had contacted
him by email.
GWC14061G Gotham Quartz pocket watch, movement with swiss parts, gold tone
This watch is made in china but the design and quality is good.
It has rubber seals on the stem and on the back cover. The Ronda 513
is a good movement and the weight of the watch is just right.
The design and the internals of the watch are actually identical
to the Charles Hubert Stainless Steel watch shown further down. It must
have been produced in the same Chinese watch factory.
Diameter: 47mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 52g
Dial window material: mineral glass
Movement: Swiss parts, assembled in china, Ronda 513 movement with one jewel
Year: 2013
Full movement documentation: ronda_513_movement.pdf
Gotham GWC15026G Gold-Tone Ultra Thin Railroad Open Face / Gotham GWC15022SB Silver-Tone Ultra Thin Open Face black dial
These two watches are a bit simpler in their mechanical design.
You do not need to pull out the stem to remove the dial with the movement for
from the case. The case is basically made of two halfs which come apart
exactly at he line where the stem goes through the case. Assembly is
therefore much faster but dust can theoretically get more easily into
the watch through the opening where the stem comes out.
They have a small Japanese movement with a very small v377 battery. I recommend
to use silver oxide batteries with this watch otherwise you end up
changing the battery every year.
The watches look good and are usable but my biggest concern with those watches
is that they are too light. A pocket watch has to have some weight
in order to glide properly back into your pocket. They cost 40$ each
and that is half the price of the above Gotham watch.
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 10mm
Battery: V377
Weight: 28g
Dial window material: plastic
Movement: Citizen Miyota 2036
Year: 2013
Full movement documentation: citizen-miyota-2036.pdf
Charles Hubert Stainless Steel Quartz Pocket Watch, water resistant to 3ATM (100ft)
It has rubber seals on the stem and on the back cover. The Ronda 513
is a very good movement and the weight of the watch is just right.
I am not sure that the watch is really water thight but the rubber seals are certainly
good to keep dust from getting into the watch.
The problem with this watch was that it was defect on arrival.
I investigated the problem and I found that the case was internally
not properly cleaned after production. It was full of steel dust and
it seems those particles made it into the movement during shipping
and caused it to fail. I bought the watch at www.pocketwatchsite.com
and I can only say that this a place to avoid. Attitude and
customer service have a lot of room for improvement. Production faults
can obviously happen especially with items coming out of china
where shortcuts in quality control are taken to keep the pice low but
any merchant should handle those cases in such a way that it does not
become a problem for the customer. The people at
www.pocketwatchsite.com never reveal their real names in any conversation
and they seem to have no way to replace a watch without causing the
customer any extra expenses. This was unacceptable to me
given that the watch was dead on arrival.
You may have better experiences with www.pocketwatchsite.com but
this is the story of that watch.
It's working now after I had spent a
couple of hours taking the movement apart and cleaning it. It helped a
lot that the movement
manufacturer Ronda has all the assembly drawings on the web.
Diameter: 47mm
Case Thickness: 11mm
Battery: V371
Weight: 48g
Dial window material: mineral glass
Movement: Swiss parts, assembled in china, Ronda 513 movement with one jewel
Year: 2013
Full movement documentation: ronda_513_movement.pdf
Mondaine, swiss railways pocket watch
The design of this watch goes back to 1944 when Hans Hilfiker, a Swiss Engineer , Designer and employee of the Federal Swiss Railways (SBB) created a clock that became the
"official swiss railways clock". A very simple design and unmistakable easy-to-read face with distinctive hands. The design is copyrighted by the Swiss Railways and a license is needed to produce even a small watch with this design. The
Mondaine watch company obtained such a license and makes those watches since
1986.
This watch design has been selected by the London Design Museum and the MoMa (Museum of Modern Art) as one of the most iconic examples of 20th century design.
It's beautiful swiss quality with a higly polished stainless steel case.
Diameter: 42mm
Case Thickness: 12mm
Battery: don't know, still original
Weight: 42g
Dial window material: mineral glass
Movement: Swiss
Year: 2013
What makes a good quartz pocket watch?
One of the most important things about any watch is that you like
the watch's design and style and that is of course very subjective.
Next on the list would be usability and readability of the watch. Some watches
come with a lot of decorations on the dial and you have to look carefully
at the watch to clearly identify the positions of the hands. This is not
good. You want to take a quick glance at the watch and know reliably what
the time is. Most quartz watches have the seconds hand in the middle
and it can be very problematic if the seconds hand has the same width and
color at the tip as one of the other hands. I have noticed that
I read sometimes the wrong time on watches
where the seconds hand is not much different form the other two hands.
Weight is important too. Watches that are too light don't slide properly
into the pocket. I find that the ideal weight for a quartz watch is around 60g.
Smaller watches (40mm) could be a bit lighter, around 40g is still OK.
The force needed to pull the stem is too low. This can be a significant
problem with cheap watches. Those watches have all a small
generic movement with a v377 battery. Such movements are meant for lady's watches where the crown is small. Combining
such a movement with a pocket watch crown that is big and exposed will
result in the crown being pulled while the watch is in your pocket.
The two small Gotham watches have solved that problem by using a small crown
and hiding it directly above the case.
The quality of the movement is very important. The battery should not
be too small and a couple of jewels will not only reduce power consumption
due to reduced friction but as well extend the life time of such a movement.
Swiss movements have a good reputation.
© Guido Socher,